The 2025 Expert Guide to Polynucleotides Under Eyes: Say Goodbye to Dark Circles & Crepey Skin
That ‘tired all the time’ look, no matter how much you sleep? For many in the UK, the culprit is the delicate under-eye area. Crepey skin, fine lines, and dark circles are notoriously difficult to treat with creams alone.
You’ve likely heard of tear trough fillers, but now there’s a new “it” treatment taking over aesthetic clinics from London to Manchester: Polynucleotides. It’s hailed as a revolutionary “regenerative” treatment, but the information online is confusing.
As an aesthetic practitioner with over a decade of experience, I’m here to provide the expert, no-hype answers. This guide will break down the real science, explain who it’s for, compare the top UK brands, clarify the cost, and detail the crucial differences between this and filler.
What Are Polynucleotides? (And Why They’re Not ‘Skin Boosters’)
Polynucleotides are a new category of injectable treatment. They are not fillers, and they are not simple ‘skin boosters’ like Profhilo.
If traditional filler is ‘scaffolding’ to prop up skin, and a skin booster is a ‘splash of hydration’, think of polynucleotides as the ‘biorepair crew’. They don’t just mask the problem—they signal your cells to fix it.
We call this “biostimulation” or, more accurately, “regenerative medicine.” Recent literature, including a [External Link: 2025 review in the Journal of Aesthetic Nursing], confirms their role in deep skin rejuvenation, not just superficial hydration.
The Science: How Polynucleotides Actually Regenerate Under-Eye Skin
This is where the treatment gets exciting. It goes far beyond what a simple hyaluronic acid product can do.
Waking Up Your Cells: The Fibroblast ‘Signalling’
Polynucleotides (or PNs) are long chains of DNA building blocks, often derived from purified and sterilised fish DNA.
These chains act as “signaling molecules.” When injected, they bind to specific receptors (known as A2a receptors) on your skin’s key repair cells: the fibroblasts.
This signal essentially “wakes them up,” telling them to get back to work producing fresh, healthy collagen and elastin. It’s like a factory reset for your skin’s production line.
More Than Collagen: The ‘Scaffolding’ and Hydrating Effect
The benefits don’t stop at collagen.
- Hydration: PNs are hydrophilic, meaning they attract and hold water, leading to deep and lasting hydration.
- Anti-Inflammatory: They have a proven anti-inflammatory effect, which can help calm redness and improve the purplish-blue tint of vascular dark circles.
- Tissue Scaffolding: They create a healthier environment and underlying structure for new cells to grow, thickening the skin from within.
Polynucleotides vs. Tear Trough Filler: Which One Do You Actually Need?
This is the most common question I’m asked. The answer is simple: they do two completely different jobs.
The Key Differences: A Head-to-Head Comparison
Here is the simplest way to understand the difference.
| Feature | Polynucleotides (PNs) | Hyaluronic Acid (HA) Filler |
| Primary Goal | Regenerates skin quality, thickens skin | Adds physical volume, “fills” a hollow groove |
| Main Indication | Crepey skin, fine lines, dark circles | Deep tear trough, volume loss, “hollowness” |
| Mechanism | Biostimulation (signals cells to work) | Physical gel that provides structure |
| Onset of Results | Gradual (over 4-6 weeks) | Immediate |
Scenario 1: You Have a Deep, Hollow Groove
If your primary concern is a deep, structural hollow or “groove” (the classic tear trough), filler is still the gold standard. You need physical volume to lift that shadow. Polynucleotides will not fill this hollow.
Scenario 2: You Have Thin, Crepey, Discoloured Skin
If you look in the mirror and see fine, “crinkly” lines, thin skin, and dark circles without a deep groove, polynucleotides are the ideal solution. You don’t need volume; you need better skin quality. This is where PNs shine.
Scenario 3: You Have Both Hollowness and Poor Skin Quality
This is the case for most of my patients over 40. The solution? A combination treatment. I first place a small amount of tear trough filler deep against the bone to build a foundation. Then, in a separate session, I use polynucleotides superficially to repair the skin texture over the top. It’s the ultimate under-eye rejuvenation.
The Consultation: Are You an Ideal Candidate for Polynucleotides?
This treatment is fantastic, but it’s not for everyone. Here is the checklist I run through during a real consultation.
This Treatment is Likely Your Best Choice If…
- ☑ Your main concern is thin, “crinkly”, or crepey skin.
- ☑ You have dark circles caused by pigmentation and thin skin (where blood vessels show through).
- ☑ You’ve had tear trough filler in the past but still dislike the texture of the skin.
- ☑ You are “filler-phobic” and want a more natural, gradual result.
This Treatment is Not the Right Choice If…
- ❌ Your only problem is a deep, structural hollow (you need filler).
- ❌ You want an “instant” result (this treatment takes time and multiple sessions).
- ❌ You have an allergy to fish (as PNs are derived from fish DNA).
From the Clinician’s Chair: Ameela vs. PhilArt vs. Plinest (The Top UK Brands)
You’ll see different brand names in UK clinics. Not all polynucleotides are created equal. They differ in concentration and formulation, and an expert practitioner will choose the one best suited for your specific needs.
Ameela (Formerly Nucleofill): The High-Concentration All-Rounder
Ameela is a powerhouse. It has a high molecular weight and is excellent for providing significant regeneration and firming. I often use it for patients with noticeable skin laxity and dehydration.
PhilArt Eye: The Targeted Specialist for Delicate Skin
This is a newer, highly sophisticated formulation specifically designed for the ultra-delicate periorbital area. It’s fantastic for targeting fine, superficial lines and improving that “papery” skin texture right under the lash line.
Plinest: The Classic ‘OG’ Biostimulator
Plinest is one of the original and most well-studied brands. It’s a reliable and effective choice for general skin rejuvenation and repair.
A Practitioner’s Pro-Tip:
“How I choose the right brand for my patient is based on why their under-eye looks tired. For a patient with significant dehydration and fine lines, I often reach for PhilArt Eye due to its specific formulation. For a patient who also wants to treat the upper eyelid or brow, Ameela offers fantastic versatility. We don’t use a ‘one-size-fits-all’ approach.”
Your Treatment Protocol: What to Expect Step-by-Step
It’s important to demystify the process so you can feel confident and prepared.
1. The Consultation and Skin Assessment
First, we talk. We assess your skin quality, discuss your goals, review your medical history (especially for that fish allergy), and confirm you are a suitable candidate.
2. Numbing & The Injection Process (Needle vs. Cannula)
The area is cleaned, and a strong topical numbing cream is applied for about 20-30 minutes. The treatment itself is quick. Using a very fine needle, I place a series of small deposits (blebs) of the product directly under the skin. Some practitioners may use a cannula (a blunt-tipped tube) for fewer injection points.
3. The ‘Blebs’ & Immediate Aftercare
You will leave the clinic with small, visible bumps under your eyes. This is normal. It’s the product. You will be advised to avoid makeup, strenuous exercise, and alcohol for 24 hours.
4. The Treatment Schedule: How Many Sessions?
This is not a “one and done” treatment. For optimal results, a course of 2-3 sessions is standard, spaced 3-4 weeks apart. This progressive stimulation is what builds lasting, high-quality skin.
Downtime, Risks, and Common Side Effects
Official clinical studies, like those [registered to evaluate periorbital safety], show polynucleotides have a very high safety profile when administered by a medical professional.
Let’s Talk About the ‘Blebs’: Those Little Under-Eye Bumps
The most common “side effect” isn’t really a side effect—it’s the ‘blebs.’ These are the small, raised bumps from the injection. They are completely expected and typically fade within 24-48 hours as the product integrates into your skin.
Common & Manageable: Bruising and Swelling
As with any injection, there is a risk of mild bruising or swelling. This is especially true for the delicate, vascular under-eye area. This usually resolves within a few days and can be covered with makeup after 24 hours.
Cost of Polynucleotide Treatments in the UK (2025)
Understanding the investment is a key part of your decision.
Price Per Session vs. A Full Course Package
Prices vary, but as a general guide, you can expect to pay between £350 and £500 per session in the UK.
Most clinics, including ours, offer a discount for booking a full course of 3 sessions, which is the recommended protocol for the best results.
Why Prices Vary
This price depends on the practitioner’s expertise, the clinic’s location (London clinics are typically more expensive), and the brand of product being used.
The 8 Most Common Questions I’m Asked in My UK Clinic
Here are the rapid-fire answers to the questions my patients ask every day.
1. Are polynucleotides better than tear trough filler?
They aren’t “better” or “worse”—they are different. If you have hollows, you need filler. If you have bad skin, you need polynucleotides. If you have both, you often need both.
2. How long do polynucleotides last under the eyes?
The results are regenerative, meaning we are building new, healthy skin. After your initial course of 3 treatments, a single maintenance session every 6-9 months is usually recommended to keep the cellular “factory” working at its best.
3. Is the polynucleotide treatment painful?
With strong numbing cream, the treatment is very tolerable. Most patients describe it as a small “pinch”. It is generally considered less uncomfortable than filler, as the product itself doesn’t cause a stinging sensation.
4. What are the ‘lumpy bumps’ I’ve seen online after treatment?
Those are the “blebs” we discussed. They are a normal and temporary part of the procedure that last 1-2 days. They are not a complication.
5. How much do polynucleotides cost in the UK?
Expect to pay £350-£500 for a single session. Be very wary of “cheap” deals; you are paying for the practitioner’s skill and a genuine, medically-approved product.
6. What is the difference between Lumi Eyes and polynucleotides?
“Lumi Eyes” is a specific brand of polynucleotide treatment. It’s often marketed as a standalone name, but it is part of the same family, working on the same principle of biostimulation.
7. Can I have polynucleotides if I’ve already had filler?
Yes, absolutely. This is an excellent combination. I often wait 4-6 weeks after a filler treatment before starting polynucleotides to treat the superficial skin quality.
8. Why can’t I just use that PDRN ‘salmon sperm’ serum I saw on TikTok?
You’ll see topical serums with PDRN (a component of polynucleotides). While these can be excellent for improving surface hydration, as [skincare experts at Yahoo UK note], they cannot penetrate the skin barrier to reach the deep fibroblast cells. They are a great support for your skin, but they cannot create the deep, cellular regeneration of an injectable treatment.
Conclusion
Polynucleotides are not a replacement for filler, but a powerful and sophisticated new category of treatment. They don’t fill—they regenerate. By signalling your own cells to produce collagen and elastin, they thicken skin, reduce fine lines, and improve polynucleotides under eyes from a cellular level.
The shift from merely “filling” shadows to actively “repairing” skin health is the most exciting change I’ve seen in aesthetics. My patients are happier with long-term, natural skin quality, not just a short-term fix.
Ready to see if polynucleotides can transform your under-eye skin? Book a no-obligation consultation at our clinic today to build your personal treatment plan and find out if you’re a candidate.
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